By Gregory Leute

Photos by Joe Froelich

Just the mention of Bimini to those who have been there is sure to draw a knowing smile. Steeped in renegade romance, the island has for generations been a favored retreat for anglers, divers, marine sportsmen, adventurers of a less savory nature, all of whom share a taste for the rustic tropics.

Twenty-five minutes and a world away.

So the expression goes. You think because it's so close, you won't find things that much different.

Not so, mon. Not so. Half way over on the crossing, you can already feel it. And as you approach the island, sweeping over its palette of cobalt, azure, aquamarine and emerald waters to the tiny airstrip, arrestingly small in the midst of all that thick, green tropical foliage, you, like Toto, will catch on that this ain't Kansas. You might even catch a glimpse of the skeletons of small planes littering the shallow waters on final approach, hinting at the misfortunes of hapless flyers or below-radar misadventure.

Immediately upon touchdown, though, your blood pressure slows down, your senses are pleasurably assaulted--and you discover you're on Island Time. Even your check-in with customs is a neighborly visit--hardly the withering scrutiny one might expect at other points of entry in the world. Might as well put that watch away; you won't need it until it's time to dive.

That feeling is amplified once you take the brief shuttle ride to Duncombe's Bimini Island Yacht Club, home base for Scuba Bimini, the latest jewel in the Neal Watson crown. Make no mistake: it's no Waldorf or Ritz-Carlton. What it is, though, is relaxed, informal, unpretentious, warmly cordial and thoroughly therapeutic.

Watson, who first set up shop on the island in 1965 in the place where Scuba Bimini is based today, would probably agree.

"One of the things we try to make sure of is to sell the resort for what it is," Watson says. "The worst thing would be for some lady to show up at the airport in an evening gown asking where the casino is."

"I still have a special spot in my heart for this place," he adds. "My sons were born and grew up on this island--it has a lot of history."

Whatever it may lack in five-star appointments, it more than amply makes up for in atmosphere. And, while the polish may not be five star in the traditional sense, the diving certainly is: the resort is the launching point for some of the best diving to be had in the hemisphere.

So how do I arrange this getaway, you ask? Easy enough--by calling Neal Watson's Undersea Adventures in Ft. Lauderdale. Most likely you will talk to Beth Watson, who will make your arrangements. Flights are chartered with Bimini Island Air, whose flights leave from the Ft. Lauderdale Executive Airport.

A comfortable half-hour hop in a Fairchild Metro III commuter jet, and you're in the real Bahamas. Customs check-in is usually brief and painless, the three-dollar entry fee and passport check notwithstanding. It's also a great early opportunity to acclimatize your ears to the island lilt. The shuttle trip to The Bimini Island Yacht Club typically costs about five dollars and lasts about ten minutes, unless the driver spots a friend on the road. But remember, this is Island Time; the mainland rules don't apply.

On your arrival at the Yacht Club, chances are you'll be greeted personally by Percy Duncombe himself. Percy, a native to the island and a 12-year proprietor of the Yacht Club, now owns the resort franchise with partner Bobby Epstein. The place has been in Percy's family for years.

"Even though I've spent years abroad, studying and working, this is home to me," Percy says . "And I like to share that feeling with everybody who comes here--give them that laid-back experience that I would like to have welcome me."

I was immediately reminded of that old cliche with a new twist: there are no strangers in Percy's place, only friends he hasn't met. But you can't help believing it's true here; we were made to feel instantly at home.

While the hotel was undergoing renovations, the rooms were clean, well air conditioned and more than ample--our room had two queen beds.

After a delicious home-cooked meal consisting of the local catch of the day, we were on the boat to begin our afternoon's dive. We were met by our crew, Captain Paul Gyles and divemaster Caju Barbosa, at dockside, where we set up our gear. The full-service dive shop at Scuba Bimini is designed to meet any air and equipment needs a diver could have--you can rent as much or as little as you like, or make most necessary repairs.

Our boat, the 33-foot Island Hopper Deep Respect, was a comfortable vessel that our fellow divers, an amiable mixed-bag octet from all over the States, could easily move around in without discomfort.

Paul and Caju proved a solid team: though affable and laid-back, they knew these waters and respected their own and our abilities and limitations. They are both great storytellers, too, and they regaled us with tales of the waters and the colorful characters who populate these islands. We knew we were in for a safe and stimulating adventure, not to mention a few great laughs.

And what an adventure. I remember Neal Watson's description of the area, and his claim that Bimini had some of the best diving in the world. That was not salesmanship, but the truth.

"The islands' proximity to the Gulf Stream gives us a great big filter," he said. "Even after a big blow, the current from the Stream brings in that crystal clear water before you know it."

The visibility, in fact, was so phenomenal, we gave up bothering to estimate it. Like the man said, if you can see people dangling their feet off the dive platform from 100 feet, that's about as good as it gets.

In terms of variety of reef and pelagic creatures, I have yet to see its equal. Our dives took us to some of the better-known locations: the Wall at Nigel's, Victory Reef, Turtle Rocks, the Sapona, the Strip and the wreck of the Trader. Each site offered its own unique appeal, some challenging, some relaxing, all extraordinarily rich in color and relief. Diving the Strip after dark was the most colorful night dive I have ever experienced.

At the end of the dive day, if you don't feel the need to crash right away, there's lots to see and do--or nothing at all, if you like. Most of the shops, restaurants and watering holes are on the north island, a short ferry ride that costs about five dollars for a round trip. Wherever you decide to eat, be sure to try the local conch. Whether fried, in fritters, or in chowder, it's sure to be a taste-treat memory you'll always remember

After you come ashore and step out onto the main road, take a good look up the street and wait for that flash of deja-vu to kick in; you may recognize the view from the closing scene of The Silence of the Lambs, which was filmed here. Farther up the road, you'll find the Red Lion Pub, a reasonably-priced (by tourist standards) place for island menu favorites. CJ's Deli is a good lunch-counter restaurant with a nice family feel, while the Sand Bar (also known as The End of the World) is known for its colorful display of underwear on the walls. Be careful: the barkeep may insist on a contribution. Playing along is entirely up to you.

And finally, no visit to Bimini would be complete without a trip to the Compleat Angler, one of Ernest Hemingway's favorite haunts. Laid out in dark wood with lots of fishing paraphernalia, the place has a definite Papa vibe. Lots of Hemingway memorabilia decks the walls, as well as that of other local legends.

But while North Bimini has the better known and more expensive night spots and eateries, you can have a great time without ever leaving the Yacht Club. Sooner or later, to paraphrase Casablanca, everybody comes to Percy's--divers, anglers, yachtsmen, bush pilots, locals. The mix is incredible, and it makes for a grand time. Oh, yeah, and the food is delicious, ample and satisfying, the drinks are cold, and Percy's personal concoctions are not to be missed.

While the resort is good about providing refreshments on the boat, you may want to pack some of your favorite snack goodies. The local economy may not have them, or have them but not at a price you'd care to spend. And by all means, bring insect repellent--you may get to a point where you'd gladly trade your dive gear for some DEET.

But most important of all, make sure to pack your sense of adventure. If you do, you will not go away disappointed.

Make your date with the reefs and wrecks of Bimini by calling Scuba Bimini at (800) 848-4073.